5.7L Hemi Header Installation Guide (2009-2018 Ram 1500)

Alright, let's get those hands dirty. Swapping the restrictive log manifolds for a set of aftermarket headers (shorty or long-tube) on a 4th Gen 5.7L Hemi is one of the best ways to wake up the engine and fix the inevitable broken manifold bolt "Hemi Tick" once and for all. I've compiled this step-by-step guide based on years of turning wrenches on these trucks and the collective wisdom of the Ram forums.

Required Tools & Supplies

• Metric socket set (deep and shallow, specifically 10mm, 13mm, 15mm)
• Wrench set (ratcheting wrenches are a lifesaver here)
• Various socket extensions and universal swivel joints
• Penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster)
• Torque wrench
• O2 sensor socket (7/8" or 22mm)
• Jack and jack stands
• OEM Mopar Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (consensus: DO NOT use the paper gaskets that come with aftermarket headers; they will blow out. Use Mopar multi-layer steel gaskets).
• Stage 8 Locking Header Bolts or OEM Grade 8 hardware

Phase 1: Preparation & Teardown

1. Disconnect the Battery: Disconnect the negative terminal. You'll be working near the starter and pulling O2 sensors. Safety first.
2. Jack up the Truck: Secure the front end on heavy-duty jack stands. Remove both front wheels.
3. Remove Inner Fender Liners: This is non-negotiable on a Ram. Remove the plastic clips and bolts holding the front wheel well liners in place. Doing this gives you direct, straight-on access to the exhaust manifolds.
4. Remove the Engine Cover & Intake (Optional but helpful): Pull the plastic Hemi hat and the cold air intake tube to give yourself more light and reaching room from the top.

Phase 2: Removal of Stock Manifolds

1. Disconnect O2 Sensors: Unplug the upstream (and downstream if doing long tubes) oxygen sensors from the wiring harness.
2. Disconnect the Y-Pipe / Mid-Pipes: Unbolt the stock exhaust flanges connecting the manifolds to the catalytic converters (usually 15mm nuts).
3. Driver Side Clearance - Steering Shaft:
   PRO-TIP: To get the driver-side manifold out and the new header in, you MUST move the steering shaft. Lock your steering wheel dead straight with the seatbelt! If the steering wheel spins freely while disconnected, you will break the clock spring in the steering column. Remove the 13mm pinch bolt on the steering shaft knuckle and collapse the shaft out of the way.
4. Passenger Side Clearance - Oil Dipstick: Unbolt the oil dipstick tube bracket (usually a 10mm bolt attached to the block or head) and firmly pull the tube straight up to pop it out of the block. Plug the hole with a clean rag.
5. Remove Heat Shields: Take off the 10mm nuts holding the tin heat shields over the stock manifolds.
6. Unbolt the Manifolds: Working from the outside in, remove the manifold bolts (13mm).
   Note: If you have broken studs (classic Hemi tick), you will need to weld a nut to the broken stud or use an extractor to back it out once the manifold is out of the way.
7. Remove Manifolds: Drop the stock heavy cast iron manifolds out through the wheel wells or from underneath.
8. Prep the Surface: Clean the cylinder head exhaust ports thoroughly. Use a plastic scraper or Scotch-Brite pad to ensure no old gasket material is left. Do not gouge the aluminum heads!

Phase 3: Installing the New Headers

1. Transfer O2 Sensors: Carefully remove the O2 sensors from the old manifolds and install them into the new headers. Apply a tiny amount of anti-seize to the threads, keeping it away from the sensor tip.
2. Position the Headers: Slip the new headers into place. Usually, the driver's side goes in easiest from the top or through the wheel well, while the passenger side often slides up easily from underneath.
3. Install Gaskets and Bolts: Slide your OEM Mopar gaskets between the header and the head. Thread all header bolts in by hand to ensure nothing is cross-threaded.
4. Tightening Sequence: Torque the header bolts starting from the center two bolts and alternating outward (Center, left, right, far left, far right).
   FITMENT CHECK: Before final torque, check clearances! Ensure the header tubes are not touching the steering shaft, motor mounts, frame rails, or wiring harnesses. Long tube headers often get dangerously close to the passenger side motor mount.
   Tighten to 18 ft-lbs (or manufacturer spec).
5. Reconnect the Steering Shaft: Re-extend the steering shaft, install the pinch bolt, and use Loctite. Torque to spec. Spin the wheel later to ensure the knuckles clear the new header tubes.
6. Reinstall the Dipstick Tube: Remove your rag, lube the O-ring on the dipstick tube with a little fresh engine oil, and slide it back into the block. Bolt the bracket back down. (You may need to gently bend the bracket to clear the new header tubes).
7. Connect the Exhaust/Mid-Pipes: Bolt your new Y-pipe or existing mid-pipes up to the header collectors. Ensure the exhaust system is hanging neutrally before tightening to avoid stress cracks later.
8. Reconnect O2 Sensors: Plug the O2 sensor pigtails back into the main harness. Use zip-ties to secure the wires far away from the hot header tubes. Melted O2 wires are the #1 cause of post-install CELs (Check Engine Lights).

Phase 4: Reassembly & Final Checks

1. Reinstall the inner fender liners and secure all clips.
2. Put the wheels back on and lower the truck. Torque lug nuts.
3. Reinstall the intake and engine cover.
4. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

Take your time, use plenty of penetrating oil on the tear-down, and don't cheap out on the gaskets. Enjoy the new rumble and the extra horsepower!