How to Install Coilovers on a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 8 & 9

Step-by-step DIY guide to installing coilovers on a Mitsubishi Evo 8 and 9. Learn tool requirements, camber bolt setup, and ride height adjustment.

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2003-2007 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII IX Performance Upgrades and Tuning

How to Install Coilovers on a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 8/9

Swapping out tired factory struts for a set of fully threaded coilovers is the single most effective way to dial in your Evo's handling and track presence. Doing it yourself saves garage fees and ensures your ride height is measured perfectly.

The Short Answer (TL;DR)

Replacing the suspension on a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 8 or 9 takes about 3 to 4 hours. You will need metric sockets (14mm, 17mm, 21mm), a breaker bar, and a micrometer for ride height adjustments. Upgrading your end links or rear sway bar while you have the suspension apart is highly recommended.

The DIY Process Overview

Start by getting the vehicle securely on jack stands. For the front, remove the brake line clips and the two massive lower strut bolts. The upper bolt features a half-moon lobe controlling camber. Facing the lobe inward yields -1 degree of camber, while facing it outward yields -2 degrees.

Lower the steering knuckle carefully and remove the three upper strut mount bolts in the engine bay. Apply anti-seize to the threaded bodies of your new coilovers to prevent the locking collars from seizing. Install the front assemblies top-first, ensuring you measure your pre-set ride height with a micrometer rather than just counting threads.

Moving to the rear, detach the 17mm sway bar end links, the lower strut bolt, and the outer control arm bolt. Inside the trunk, strip back the liner to access the two 14mm upper mount nuts. Remove the factory strut, match the ride height on your new rear coilovers, and bolt everything back together. Never skip the alignment shop after a suspension installation, or you will quickly destroy your tires.

Why You Should Upgrade While You're In There

Since you are already unbolting the sway bar end links and working around the steering knuckles, this is the ideal time to overhaul your aging suspension components. Factory rubber bushings and end links are likely dry-rotted and will compromise the handling benefits of your new coilovers. Installing an upgraded rear sway bar or adjustable end links will properly complement the stiffer spring rates.

Recommended Upgrade: Adjustable Sway Bar End Links and Polyurethane Bushings

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a spring compressor to install fully threaded coilovers?

No. Fully assembled aftermarket coilovers drop in directly without the need to disassemble the dangerous factory top hats. You only need a spring compressor if you are installing lowering springs onto your factory Bilstein or KYB struts.

How do I ensure my ride height is even side-to-side?

Use a precision micrometer to measure the exact distance between the lower spring lock ring and the lower mount locking ring. Do not rely on counting the threads, as manufacturing variances can throw off your chassis balance.

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