Installing a Cold Air Intake on a Toyota T-100 (1995-1998)

4 min read
Installing a Cold Air Intake on a Toyota T-100 (1995-1998)

DIY Guide: Installing a Cold Air Intake on a Toyota T-100 (1995-1998)

If you are driving a 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6 T-100, you are driving one of the best engines Toyota ever built. It’s bulletproof and reliable, but frankly, it wheezes through a straw with the factory intake system. The stock airbox is restrictive, and it has that massive "kidney bean" resonator sitting right on top of the engine soaking up heat.

Installing a Cold Air Intake (CAI) is the quickest way to wake up that V6, get a better throttle response, and hear a much more aggressive growl.

⚠️ The "Gotcha" with 1995-1998 Models

Before you start, listen closely. Your T-100 falls into the "early" 3.4L category. Unlike the 1999+ Tacomas that have a small, plastic "drop-in" Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, your truck uses a large, metal "barrel-style" MAF housing.

  • Do NOT try to unscrew the electronic sensor out of the metal barrel. You will break it.
  • We are going to transfer the entire metal housing to the new system.

Phase 1: The Setup

Time Estimate: 60–90 Minutes
Difficulty: 2/10 (Beginner Friendly)

Tools Required:

  • Socket Set (specifically 10mm and 12mm)
  • Extension bar (6-inch)
  • Flathead screwdriver (for hose clamps)
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Pliers (for pinching factory spring clamps)
  • Clean rag & Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner

Safety First: Disconnect the Negative (-) Battery Terminal. I know it's annoying to reset your clock, but you are working with the MAF sensor wiring. If you short it, you fry the ECU. Just do it.

Phase 2: Removal (Tearing out the Stock System)

Step 1: Remove the "Kidney Bean" Resonator

This is the big black plastic box sitting directly on top of the engine intake manifold.

  1. Loosen the hose clamp connecting the resonator to the throttle body.
  2. Loosen the hose clamp connecting the resonator to the rest of the intake tube.
  3. Disconnect the two vacuum lines attached to it (PCV breather and fuel pressure regulator).
  4. Unbolt the resonator (usually two 10mm bolts) and yank it off.

Step 2: Unplug the MAF Sensor

Locate the metal MAF housing attached to the airbox (driver's side front). Squeeze the plastic tab on the electrical connector and wiggle it off. Do not pull by the wires.

Step 3: Remove the Air Box Upper Half

Undo the metal clips holding the air box lid down. Loosen the clamp connecting the air box to the intake tube. Remove the lid and the old air filter.

Step 4: Remove the MAF Housing (Critical Step)

The metal MAF barrel is bolted to the air box lid or base. Remove the four nuts/bolts holding the MAF housing to the plastic air box and gently pull the MAF housing free.

Mechanic's Tip: Look inside the barrel. See those tiny wires? Those are the sensor filaments. Do not touch them. If they get oily or dirty, your truck will run rough.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Air Box

There are usually three 12mm bolts holding the bottom half of the plastic box to the fender well. Remove them and pull the box out.

Phase 3: Installation

Step 6: Assemble the Heat Shield

Install the rubber edge trim around the top of the new heat shield (this prevents rattles). Bolt the heat shield into the truck using the original factory air box mounting points.

Step 7: Prepare the MAF Adapter

Bolt your Factory MAF Housing to the new adapter plate provided in your kit.

CRITICAL: Pay attention to the airflow direction arrow on the MAF housing. It must point AWAY from the filter and TOWARD the engine.

Step 8: Install the Filter

Bolt the MAF assembly to the new heat shield. Install the new Cone Filter onto the end of the MAF adapter inside the heat shield. Tighten that large hose clamp snugly.

Step 9: Throttle Body Clean

Before putting the new tube on, check your throttle body butterfly valve. If it is black and gunky, spray a little cleaner on a rag (not directly into the engine) and wipe the edges of the flap clean. This helps smooth out your idle.

Step 10: Install the New Intake Tube

  • Install the silicone coupler onto the Throttle Body.
  • Slide the new Intake Tube into the coupler.
  • Connect the other end of the tube to your MAF housing output.
  • Align everything so the tube isn't rubbing against brake lines or the fan shroud.
  • Tighten all hose clamps.

Step 11: Vacuum Lines

Reconnect your vacuum lines to the new intake tube:

  • PCV Hose: Thick rubber hose from the valve cover.
  • Fuel Regulator/Damper: Smaller vacuum line from the fuel rail.
  • Note: If your kit has extra holes you aren't using, plug them with the provided caps to prevent a P0171 Lean Code.

Step 12: Reconnect the MAF

Plug the electrical harness back into the MAF sensor. Ensure the wire isn't stretched tight.

Phase 4: The Shake Down

  1. Double Check: Go over every single hose clamp. Are they tight? Did you leave a rag in the intake pipe?
  2. Reconnect Battery: Hook up the Negative terminal.
  3. Start the Engine: It might idle high for a second as the ECU relearns the airflow. If you hear a loud hiss, check for vacuum leaks.
  4. Test Drive: Enjoy the new sound!
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