Installing a Cold Air Intake Dodge Dakota or Durango 4.7L V8
DIY Guide: Installing a Cold Air Intake (Dodge Dakota/Durango 4.7L V8)
This guide covers the installation of the Injen Technology PF8026 intake system (and similar aftermarket kits) for the 4.7L V8 Magnum engine.
- 2000-2004 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V8
- 2000-2003 Dodge Durango 4.7L V8
- Note: This guide is specifically for models without Cruise Control.
⚠️ Pre-Installation Safety
- Let it Cool: Never work on a hot engine. You may need to move coolant lines, which can cause severe burns if the system is pressurized.
- Disconnect Battery: Always disconnect the Negative (-) battery terminal before starting. This prevents electrical shorts and forces the ECU to reset its fuel trims for the new airflow.
Tools You Will Need
- Ratchet wrench
- 10mm Socket
- 10mm Nut Driver
- 8mm Nut Driver
- Flathead screwdriver (for hose clamps)
Phase 1: Removal of Factory System
Step 1: Remove Resonator & Throttle Body Connection
Locate the large plastic resonator box (with "V8" often stamped on it). Loosen the clamp connecting it to the throttle body. Remove the two bolts that fasten the resonator to the intake manifold brackets.
Step 2: Remove Air Box Mounts
Locate the mounting bracket holding the air filter box to the fender well. Remove the lock nut securing it.
Step 3: Disconnect Lines & Sensors
- Disconnect the crankcase vent hose (breather hose) from the port on the air box.
- If equipped: Unplug the Air Temperature Sensor from the intake plenum.
Step 4: Pull the System
Once all nuts, bolts, and clamps are loose, lift the entire assembly (plenum, air box, and intake duct) out of the engine bay in one piece. Set it aside.
Phase 2: Preparation & Assembly
Step 5: Prepare Throttle Body
Take the provided 3.25" straight hose coupler and press it over the throttle body opening. Place two clamps over the hose, but only tighten the one on the throttle body side for now.
Step 6: Install the Vibra-Mount
Locate the M6 stud on the wheel well (fender). Screw the new rubber "vibra-mount" onto this stud until it sits flush. This will dampen engine vibration and prevent the new tube from cracking.
Step 7: Assemble Heat Shield
Attach the composite brackets to the new metal heat shield using the provided flange bolts. Open the large filter clamp and set it over these brackets, then slip the filter into the clamp. Adjust it so the clamp sits between the beads on the filter neck.
Step 8: Attach Filter to Intake Tube
Press the filter assembly onto the end of the new metal intake tube. Ensure the tube is pressed all the way into the filter stops, then tighten the filter clamp.
Step 9: Air Temp Sensor Setup
Check your new intake tube for a pre-drilled hole:
- If you DO have a sensor: Install the provided rubber grommet into the hole, then press your factory sensor into the grommet.
- If you DO NOT have a sensor: Use the provided plug to seal the hole.
Phase 3: Final Installation
Step 10: Drop it In
Lower the new intake assembly into the engine bay. Guide the throttle body end of the tube into the silicone coupler you installed in Step 5.
Step 11: Secure the Bracket
Align the mounting bracket on the intake tube with the rubber vibra-mount stud. Secure it using an M6 flange nut and fender washer. Do not over-tighten, or you might shear the rubber mount.
Step 12: Reconnect Breather Hose
Connect your stock crankcase breather hose to the large vacuum port on the new intake tube. (If the hose is old or cracking, now is a great time to replace it with generic fuel/emissions hose).
Step 13: Final Tightening
Align the heat shield and tube for the best fit, ensuring it isn't rubbing against brake lines or the hood. Tighten all remaining hose clamps and nuts.
🔧 Mechanic's Pro Tips
1. Save Your Stock Parts
Do not throw away the factory airbox or resonator. If you ever sell the truck, having the OEM parts can actually increase resale value, or you may need them to pass strict emissions tests in certain states (like California) if you lose your CARB sticker.
2. Cleaning the Butterfly Valve
Since you have the intake tube off anyway, look inside the throttle body. If you see a black ring of carbon where the flap opens, wipe it out with a rag and some throttle body cleaner. This is the #1 fix for rough idling on the 4.7L engine.
3. The "Hydro-Shield"
If you live in a rainy area or do any off-roading, consider buying a "Hydro-shield" (a water-repellent pre-filter sock). Cold air intakes often sit lower or are more exposed than stock boxes; this sock prevents water from soaking the filter and stalling the engine.
4. The 100-Mile Checkup
After driving for about 100 miles, pop the hood and re-tighten the hose clamps. Silicone couplers expand and contract with engine heat and can work themselves loose shortly after installation.
