How to Install Performance Air Intakes on Your Infiniti G37 (2008-2013)


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How to Install Performance Air Intakes on Your Infiniti G37 (2008-2013)

DIY Guide: How to Install Performance Air Intakes on Your Infiniti G37 (2008-2013)

Looking to give your G37 that aggressive VQ growl and a boost in throttle response? Installing an aftermarket air intake is one of the best "bang-for-your-buck" mods you can do.

Based on the popular setup shown in the community (dual red cone filters directly in the engine bay), this guide covers the installation of a Short Ram Intake. This is an easier install than the "Long Tube" cold air kits because you don't need to remove the front bumper or cut your radiator support.


Project Details

  • Time Required: 60–90 Minutes
  • Difficulty: Easy / Beginner
  • Tools Needed:
    • 10mm Socket & Ratchet (with extension)
    • Flathead Screwdriver
    • Pliers
    • Phillips Head Screwdriver
    • Clean rag or towel

Step 1: Safety & Prep

Before you start, make sure your engine is cool to the touch. The aluminum intake parts get extremely hot!

CRUCIAL STEP: Disconnect the Negative (-) battery terminal using your 10mm socket.

Why? This prevents electrical shorts and resets the ECU (engine computer) so it can learn the new airflow immediately upon startup.

Step 2: Remove the Factory Air Boxes

You have two air boxes—one on the driver's side and one on the passenger side. The process is the same for both.

  1. Remove Engine Cover: Loosen the two 10mm bolts at the front and the two 10mm nuts at the back of the silver engine cover. Lift it off and set it aside.
  2. Disconnect MAF Sensors: Locate the Mass Air Flow sensors on the intake tubes. Press the tab and unplug the electrical connector. Unclip the wiring harness from the air box so it hangs free.
  3. Disconnect Hoses: Use pliers to slide back the spring clamp on the PCV breather hose (the small rubber hose connecting the engine valve cover to the intake tube). Pull the hose off the intake tube.
  4. Loosen Clamps: Use a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket to loosen the hose clamp connecting the intake tube to the throttle body (the metal part on the engine).
  5. Remove Air Box Bolt: Remove the single 10mm bolt securing the air box to the side of the engine bay (fender area). Save this bolt! You will likely need it to mount your new heat shields.
  6. Pull It Out: Give the air box a firm tug upwards to unseat it from the rubber grommets on the bottom. Remove the entire assembly (box and tube) from the car.

Repeat this process for the other side.

Step 3: Transfer the MAF Sensors (Handle with Care!)

Your new intake tubes need the sensors from your old ones.

  1. Unscrew the two small screws holding the MAF sensor into the factory air box.
  2. Carefully pull the sensor straight out. Do not touch the delicate wire elements inside.
  3. Insert the sensor into the adapter on your new intake tube.
  4. CRITICAL WARNING: Check the airflow direction arrow on the sensor (if visible) or the plug orientation. The sensor must be installed so it reads air flowing towards the engine, not away from it. If you install these backwards, the car will go into "Limp Mode" (won't rev past 2,500 RPM).
  5. Secure it with the supplied hardware. Do not overtighten; these screws are small!

Step 4: Install the New Intake

  1. Install Couplers: Place the silicone couplers (rubber sleeves) onto the throttle bodies and secure them loosely with the provided hose clamps.
  2. Mount Heat Shields: If your kit came with metal heat shields (highly recommended to keep hot engine air away from the filter), install them now using the factory 10mm bolt hole you emptied in Step 2.
  3. Install Tubes: Slide your new intake tubes into the couplers on the throttle bodies.
  4. Connect PCV Hoses: Connect the breather hoses from the engine valve cover to the nipple on the new intake tubes.
    Note: The passenger side factory hose often has a weird plastic box (resonator) attached. You can replace this whole assembly with a simple run of 5/8" heater hose or silicone hose included in most kits for a cleaner look.
  5. Tighten Down: Align the tubes so they aren't rubbing against anything. Tighten the hose clamps at the throttle body.

Step 5: Filter Installation

  1. Slide your new conical air filters onto the end of the intake tubes.
  2. Rotate them so they don't hit the headlight or the heat shield.
  3. Tighten the clamps on the filters until snug.
  4. Reconnect the MAF sensor plugs until they click.
  5. Reinstall the engine cover.
  6. Reconnect your negative battery terminal.

Step 6: The "Idle Relearn" (Don't skip this!)

Because you changed the airflow, your G37 might idle high (around 1,200+ RPM) or surge when you first start it. This is normal. The car needs to relearn the idle position.

The Fix: Drive the car normally for a few days; the ECU usually adjusts on its own. If the high idle persists, you need to perform the "Idle Air Volume Learning" procedure:

  1. Warm up the engine completely.
  2. Turn the car OFF and wait 10 seconds.
  3. Turn ignition ON (engine off), wait 3 seconds.
  4. Pump the gas pedal 5 times quickly (within 5 seconds).
  5. Wait 7 seconds.
  6. Press and HOLD the gas pedal down. The "Service Engine Soon" light will start blinking.
  7. Keep holding until the light goes solid, then release and start the car immediately. The idle should drop to ~650 RPM.

Enjoy the Ride!
You should now hear a deep induction noise when you step on the gas. Double-check your clamps after 100 miles of driving to make sure nothing has vibrated loose.